The construction part
So all the materials are here, the patterns are made now it is time to start the process of construction. If you still need to do the first part here is the link to Part 1
First you want to cut out all the circles in every colour you chose twice, (remember they are only half circles that we made) make sure you add seam allowance (1cm) to each piece.
Then you also need to cut out a waistband, if you got yourself a waistband interfacing measure the width of that and use your circumference measurement and add 3 cm. 2cm for a button stand and 0.5cm each for seam allowance on each side.
Cut out your basque twice and then start on the tulle for your Petticoat. If you have the space, fold your tulles width in half or even quarter it to make the cutting process faster. A big table can help here, otherwise its going down onto the floor.
Once everything is cut out start overlocking all the pieces of the skirt all the way around, if you don’t own an overlocker use a serger stitch on your sewing machine. (fig.1) On the waistband only overlock one of the long sides. But the Basque can be overlocked together and treated as one from now on.
Fig 1, Overlocking on panels
Starting with the skirt sew together each colour on one side, (fig.2) then start at the top and sew the panels together. Make sure to try and match Centre Front, Sides and Centre Back on each panel that way the curves will flo together easier. As a little tip try to have the longer or bigger piece underneath where the feed dogs are of the sewing machine. (fig.3)
Once they are all sewn, iron the seam allowance out, leaving the hem for now. Sew a line on the spot where your waistband will be attached and hang the skirt up for a few hours to see if the fabric drops on the Bias. (this can happen with some fabrics)
During this time work on the Petticoat, prep the Basque by sewing in the waistline and the lines where you will add all the tiers. (fig.4)
Then sew together the panels of each Tier, the best way to do this is by overlapping the tulle. (fig. 5) It helps make it look less bulky. If you are using organza it might be worthwhile overlocking the edges, this will help with fraying and can be decorative if done with a roll hem.
Making each layer;
If you have a ruffle foot, set it up so you can ruffle with the effect of 1 x 3, mine worked with the stitch length (fig. 6) check how yours works and play around with it before you start.
Otherwise it’s all about sewing in gathering stitches (fig. 7) and gathering tier Two to Tier Ones length then sewing it onto Tier one. Then Repeat with Tier three onto Tier Two.
The seams between the tiers can be decorated with ribbon by sewing it over the seam. To calculate how much you need, just measure the Tier that is above the seam.
Fig 4, Basque Prep for the layers to be sewn on
Fig 5, How to sew together the tulle
Fig 6, Gahtering or Ruffle foot for a Bernina
Fig 7, What a gathering stitch looks like
Fig 8, how to sew the layers onto the basque
Fig 9, How to prep the basque for attching to the waistband
Once each layer is complete, add gathering stitches and sew it onto the line on the basque with the seam allowance facing down. (fig.8)
Go back to the skirt, has there been any dropping? If yes, try and even it out by first measuring how much and then taking in at each seam to make the panels even again.
Sew in the Invisible zipper and sew up the otherside of the skirt, making it a circle now.
Now iron on the waistband interfacing and sew the front of the waistband onto the skirt, leaving the inside still open, because the Basque needs to be added as well.
Before adding the basque, stitch back one side of the extra 5cm at the end and fold the otherside back so you have 2cm extra. (fig.9)
Then sew the basque behind the skirt into the waistband, making sure it sits well and evenly.
You can now top stitch the waistband closed or sew it closed by hand, just make sure you fold the front seam allowance up into the waistband and the remainder down, avoiding too much bulk in the waistband. (fig.10)
Now all that needs to be done is sewing in the Hook and Bar on the waistband and the two press studs on the basque, put one in the middle between the waistband and end of basque length and the other and the end of the basque.
Now go try it on and enjoy spinning and swishing around in it. Be proud of what you created. It takes a lot of time and patience so give yourself a pat on the back and take lots of pictures.
Fig 10, How to finish the waistband
If You want to share your Skirt with the world and Me Tag me on the Socials @ladyadesign or use the #pridecircleskirt
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